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Features: June 2004

Leonard Thomas Knows His Bridges and His Chickens

No need to ask why the chicken crossed the road. It’s running from Local 237 member Leonard Thomas, who’s working on his second cookbook, “Chasing the Chicken,” and roasting birds by the hundreds at street fairs, charity events, and on “Emeril Live,” the cable-TV cooking program.

For the past 27 years, Thomas, a.k.a. the “Chicken Man,” has worked as a bridge operator for the Department of Transportation, where he’s in charge of raising and lowering the Union St. drawbridge when barges cross the Gowanus Canal in Brooklyn. But business is generally slow, which leaves him time to pursue his hobby: dreaming up delicious ways to prepare his fine-feathered friends.

“I always fooled around in the kitchen,” says Thomas, whose fancy took flight when his wife Yvette gave him the gift of evening classes at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. “Like it exploded,” says Thomas, explaining how cooking school led to a part-time catering business, which led to a New York Times article that “landed me a book deal with Warner Books.”

Click here for the Chicken Man's Spicy Fried Chicken Recipe

Thomas’ first book, “Cooking With the Chicken Man” (Warner Books, 1998, $14.99), has 100 chicken recipes, including his specialty, deboned chicken stuffed with wild rice, collard greens and sausage. Thomas is developing a pineapple-rum-barbecue chicken recipe that he believes may be as good.

“Just ask the people on the bridge,” says Thomas, who shares his talents generously with friends and family. While working on the Mill Basin Bridge several years ago, Thomas called 98.7 KISS-FM radio to report on Belt Parkway traffic from his tower. On-air comments turned to chickens, and Thomas offered the deejays a sample. When Thomas delivered the goods, the deejays broadcast great reviews, giving him his first taste of fame.

“Do what you love,” Thomas advises anyone who wants to transform a hobby into a second career. “I don’t let my job define me.”

Instead, Thomas seizes every opportunity to practice the joy of cooking. On Father’s Day, for the fifth time, Thomas was a volunteer chef at the annual “Real Men Cook for Charity” event, a food tasting celebration held at Harlem’s Minisink Townhouse to raise funds for the community center’s activities.

For Mother’s Day, Thomas prepared his signature deboned and stuffed chicken on “Emeril Live,” wearing a bright chicken-patterned chef’s cap and smock. Back at the bridge in his D.O.T. blues, Thomas, who lives in Jamaica, Queens, envisions a simple retirement: having fun with his grandchildren, teaching them how to cook, and perhaps opening a small restaurant in Atlanta. In the meantime, he’s getting his recipes together. Here’s one of his favorites for you.

The Chicken Man’s Spicy Fried Chicken Recipe
[printable version]

1 3 lb. Chicken, cut into serving pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup Old Bay Seasoning
1 teaspoon cayenne
1 large egg
12 tablespoons water
2 cups vegetable or peanut oil

Wash chicken pieces and pat them dry. In a large bowl, combine chicken, salt, black pepper, and garlic and onion powders. Rub spices in well.
In a large paper or plastic bag, mix flour, Old Bay Seasoning, and cayenne.
In a medium bowl, beat egg and water until well blended. Dip a few chicken pieces in egg mixture, then place pieces in the bag with the flour and shake to coat. Repeat with remaining chicken pieces.
In a 12-inch skillet, heat oil. Add chicken, skin side down, and cover. After 5 minutes, uncover the pan and leave it uncovered for the remaining time. After 5 more minutes, turn all the pieces over and continue cooking for about 10 minutes, or until well browned and crisp, and juices run clear. Remove chicken to paper towels. Let sit for 5 minutes and serve. Serves 6.

Thomas and his book “Cooking With the Chickenman”

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